Days 65-71

June 6-12

War Spur Shelter to Daleville, Virginia

Day 65

War Spur Shelter to Sarver Hollow Shelter

War Spur Shelter

Today is best described as wet, with slippery rocks and never-ending downfall.  It was sunny in the morning until 10:00 a.m. when the rain began.  It was raining hard enough that I put on rain gear.  About 5:00 p.m., the rain stopped and the sun came out just in time for me to view the beautiful mountain meadows and pastures of the farmland below.

The trail was much like yesterday, rocky and covered with downfall, the most prevalent challenge being the downfall.

One section of downfall took me 45 minutes to get through one 1/8-mile tree maze.  I was beat by the time I finished this obstacle course and decided to take a rest.  I was sitting where I could look down on the maze, and I watched others trying to traverse the fallen tree jungle gym.  None were doing any better than I had.  I have to admit that watching others suffer through what I just finished was very entertaining.

It was a steep hike over the next mountain.  The rain and mud made the cobbles especially slippery, so it was slow going for me.  Not that I am very speedy anyway.  Once we crossed over the mountains, we could see the high pastures of the farms below with the AT meandering through them.  Hiking through the pastures, we passed many plump Black Angus cattle that paid us no heed.

Leaving the pastures, we came across Keefer Oak, the largest tree on the southern AT.  It's estimated to be 300 years old.

My initial destination for the day was Saver Hollow Shelter.  According to the trail reports, the water source at the shelter was dry.  In addition, the trail down to the shelter was steep and rocky.  I decided to stealth camp above Saver Hollow Shelter.  I had made sure to tank up with water at the last water source in anticipation of a dry camp.  This made stealth camping an easy choice.

Day 65 Trail Profile

Day 66

Saver Hollow Shelter to VA 621

Today was a great day for hiking.  There were a few clouds in the sky and a light breeze.  Most of today's hike consisted of rock hopping and scrambling on uplifted sandstone and shale slabs along the crest of the Atlantic Continental Divide.  This made for great views.

I discovered millipedes on my hiking poles, boots, and socks that I had left out to dry.  The insects must like the salt left from sweat.  It was a bit unnerving to have to pick bugs out of my socks before I put them on.

Coffee Taste Comparison:

Taster's Choice is a bit bitter compared to Folger's, but it's still drinkable.  Folgers has a nice aroma and is smooth to the taste.  My choice for a nice cup of backpacker instant coffee is Folgers.

Here is Rocky guarding our camp from menacing squirrels and backpackers walking nearby:

Rocky on Duty

Steep uplifted sandstone and shale slabs are pretty tough to hike through, especially on steep down-sloping slabs.  One slip, and you can slide a long way.

The Atlantic Continental Divide is the spine of the Appalachian Mountains where stream-flow on the west side of the mountains flows toward the Mississippi River and ultimately to the Gulf of Mexico.  Waters on the east side of the mountain chain flow to the Atlantic Ocean.

The first six miles of the trail were dry with the next water source located at Niday Shelter.  We arrived at the shelter with a quarter of a bottle of water to spare.  I filled our water bottles, and we had lunch at the shelter.

Niday Shelter

TRAIL MAGIC:

Allen Austin mans Base Camp Lupine, his mobile trail magic operation.  It's named after his dog, Lupine.  Today he provided trail magic where VA 621 crosses the AT.  Allen is a retired paramedic.  That's one of many retirements--paramedic is the only one he claimed.  He started providing trail support 20 years ago and has continued through today.

Trail Magic:  Allen Austin

Base Camp Lupine

I spent too much time talking with people at Base Camp Lupine, and it was late in the day.  I decided to make camp near a creek that has some deep pools.  I took advantage of an especially inviting pool and went for an invigorating swim.

Day 66 Trail Profile

Day 67

VA 620 to VA 621

Today was a gorgeous day.  No clouds in the sky and a light breeze--perfect hiking weather.

I woke up with the realization that today was Saturday, the post office in Catawba closed at 10:30 a.m. to get my food drop, and there was no way I could hike the 15 miles to the post office before it closed.  Although we were running low on food, we had enough to last until Monday when the post office would open.  We weren't going to starve.  In simple terms, I was in no hurry, and Rocky concurred.  So we took our time and enjoyed the day and the trail.  

Today's hike was simply one long uphill followed by a corresponding downhill.  The trail itself was nontechnical and pretty smooth, a cruising trail.

At the top of the trail was an unexpected surprise:  two park benches and cell service.  Cell service has been very scarce on the trail.  I took advantage of it by uploading the last few days of blog information to Sally.  The bench also made a great spot for lunch.

We visited the Audie Murphy monument, which is located on top of the mountain.  I had assumed that his monument would be like others along the way.  I was surprised to see American flags lining the memorial spur trail.  Large American and Texas flags flew over the large granite marker.  The marker was covered with wartime mementos, commemorating Murphy and others who died in U.S. wars.

Audie Murphy Memorial

TRAIL MAGIC:

Trout Creek Jason is retired from the U.S. Air Force.  He grew up in the area and lives close by.  He provides ice cold drinks to hikers.  He enjoys building a campfire where VA 621 and the AT intersect and having hikers share a cold drink, conversation, and, of course, the fire.  When asked why he provides trail magic, he responded that he just wants to be useful.  

Jason's easy manner made it easy for me and other hikers to join in a great conversation.  Jason offered to take one of us into Catawba for a pizza run.  We quickly responded with a resounding yes.  Not long after, we were all enjoying pizza and more conversation.  Rocky particularly enjoyed his share of the pie.

Time passed quickly.  I set up camp by Trout Creek, and we called it a day.

Day 67 Trail Profile

Day 68

VA 621 to near Catawba

(and a Reunion)

Today we reached the first of three dramatic cliff features that make up the "Triple Crown" on the AT in Virginia.  The Triple Crown consists of Dragon's Tooth, McAfee Knob, and Tinker Cliffs.  The Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club maintains approximately 100 miles of the AT in this section, including the Triple Crown.  Many of the iconic photographs people post of their AT hikes are taken with the Triple Crown features.

Nice weather and easy trails for the first four miles.  As we got closer to Dragon's Tooth, the trail became very rocky and required a lot of rock hopping and scrambling.

There were a lot of people at Dragon's Tooth.  Most were day hikers who came to see the spire.

Dragon's Tooth

The trail down was steep and technical, requiring some climbing skills.  I would rate this downhill as a double black diamond.  Rocky is obviously a better skier than I am because he had no problems negotiating even the hardest sections.

We also passed another milestone today -- the 700-mile marker on the trail.  This is almost 1/3 of the way for northbound thru-hikers.

We did have a big disappointment today.  The Four Pines Hostel wouldn't allow us to stay because they don't allow dogs, and it didn't matter that Rocky is a service dog.  They claimed that because the hostel doesn't charge for service and they are donation-based, they are not a business and ADA rules do not apply.  Stay away from this place!!!  If you do decide to stay, put nothing in the donation box except maybe a note saying, "Service Dog."

I ended up spending several hours at a service station/mini-mart (the only store in the area), charging my electronics, eating pizza, and conversing with other hikers.  The sad thing is that after seven days of hiking, I was looking forward to a shower, dinner, washing my clothes, and conversation with other hikers in the evening at the hostel.  That was quickly taken from me thanks to the hostel incident.  We eventually hiked about a mile up the trail.

I had been in contact with Commando.  We had originally planned to meet at the hostel.  He abandoned his stay and met us up the trial.  It was good to see him.  Rocky was especially glad to see him.

Day 69

Catawba to Lambert's Meadow

Today was another beautiful day, sunny with clear skies.  For the first half of today's hike, the trail was relatively clear of obstacles, and we were able to cruise.

My food drop was waiting for me at the Catawba Post Office.  Once we reached VA 311, I hitchhiked to the post office.  I approached a vehicle that stopped near us.  Once I explained that I was hiking the AT and not someone looking for a handout, the people took me to the post office and back.  I have to admit that I looked pretty scruffy.  Rocky stayed with Commando while I retrieved my package.

The hike to McAfee Knob was a bit more challenging than yesterday's hike, with a lot of rocks to traverse.  McAfee Knob is the second jewel in the AT Triple Crown.  The view from the Knob was beautiful.

McAfee Knob

  

The next eight miles to Tinker Cliffs, the third jewel in the crown, were rolling and fairly fast to hike.  In my opinion, the Cliffs are far more scenic than Dragon's Tooth or McAfee Knob.

Tinker Cliffs

On the way to Lambert's Meadow, our intended destination, we stopped by the Catawba Mountain and Johns Spring Shelters.

Catawba Mountain Shelter

Johns Spring Shelter

We also passed by quite a few interesting rock features.

We set up camp in Lambert's Meadow, near the creek, while a bear lingered nearby.

Day 70

Lambert's Meadow to Daleville, VA

The trail today was deceiving.  It felt like we were climbing even though we were hiking downhill.  The trail consisted mostly of short, steep, up-and-down climbs.    

This area has some fantastic rock walls and monoliths.  I particularly like the rock archways formed by geologic faults and tilted slabs.

There were a lot of ripe blueberries and very green blackberries along the trail.

When we arrived in Daleville, VA, we stopped by Three Little Pigs for a BBQ rib lunch.  The restaurant comps thru-hikers with banana pudding.  Our waitress brought Rocky the thru-hiker dog, a big bowl of water and 1/2 pound of smoked turkey slices.  Rocky was very appreciative.

After checking into the Super 8, taking a much-needed shower (it had been nine days since my last shower), and putting laundry in the washer, I went with Commando to Pancho's Mexican Restaurant for dinner.

I ordered fajitas and received a massive plate of sizzling meat and vegetables.  I was able to eat about 1/3 of the platter.  I took the leftovers back to my room, where Rocky polished off the rest and wanted more.

 

Day 71

Zero Day in Daleville

We spent the day resting, visiting with other hikers, and provisioning.  I needed fuel for my stove and a few things from the market.  Commando purchased new shoes and replaced his pack.  

The outside of the local outfitter was lined with packs from hikers stocking up on provisions.

 I repaired my leaking air mattress.  I was getting tired of having to add air at about 2:00 a.m. every night.

We ended up back at Pancho's for dinner, planning a 20-mile slack pack for the next day.