Days 21-23, April 23-25
Locust Cove Gap to Fontana Dam
Day 21, Locust Cove Gap to Cody Gap
Our morning started out like most mornings: making breakfast, filtering water, and tearing down camp. It was quickly disrupted when the Belgian Malinois that had jumped Rocky the night before ran into our camp and did it again. There was a dog scuffle that ended with neither dog getting hurt. The dog's owner then proceeded to threaten Commando with a hiking pole and said that if we touched his dog he would lay hands on us. He realized he was outnumbered and backed off. We reported the incident to the local Sheriff's Department.
The trail again had a lot of major ups and downs. The temperature was on the cool side, which made the uphill climbs bearable.
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| Day 21 Trail Profile |
The problem with all this greenery is that not all of it is friendly. Poison ivy is interspersed throughout the wildflowers and on both sides of the trail.
When it comes to taking a break, Rocky does it seriously.
When we dropped down to cross Sweetwater Road, there was road construction and a detour on the AT. It was kind-of funny to see all of the precautions that North Carolina put in place to keep AT hikers safe. If they could see what we had just walked through!
We stopped by Brown Fork Gap Shelter. It looked like a nice spot, but it was already full.
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| Brown Fork Gap Shelter |
We pulled into Cody Gap around 6:00 p.m. and selected our campsite. Within 45 minutes, the place was packed.
Day 22, Cody Gap to Fontana Dam
We woke up this morning with the threat of rain. I started water to boil for my coffee and oatmeal, and I quickly packed. I had my breakfast and stowed my remaining gear just in time to beat the rain.
The map indicated that our hike today was mainly downhill with one major climb in the middle. What the map doesn't show is how rugged the terrain is between Cody Gap and Fontana Dam. While the ups and downs, climbs, and obstacles to avoid are physically challenging, the mental aspects are equally challenging.
You are constantly watching where you place every step. If you're not paying close attention, some random root, little rock nub, slick spot . . . will trip you up, and you will find yourself on the ground. So far, I've had four falls, three from snake-like roots grabbing me, and one from a slippery-wobbley rock.
We stopped by Sassafras Gap Shelter and talked with some hikers there. Talking with other hikers with such broad backgrounds has been one of my favorite experiences on the trail.
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| Sassafras Gap Shelter |
I'm not sure if it was anticipation of seeing my wife Sally or if this section of trail was harder than expected, but I was really looking forward to getting this section of trail behind me.
When we finally reached the Fontana Dam Marina, I was looking forward to a nice flat walk to the actual dam where we were meeting Sally. That wasn't the case. The AT veered away from the road and immediately started a climb.
The trail came out by the Fontana AT Hilton, an extremely plush shelter. This place even has a charging station.
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| Fontana Hilton |
The last mile to the dam was on a paved walkway. There was even a drinking fountain along the way.
Rocky was extremely happy to see his family--Rosie (golden retriever), Zap (catahoula), and Sally (person)--as was I.
VIDEO HIGHLIGHT
Note from Sally: Commando was with Titanium and Rocky as they hiked into Fontana Dam (it was such a treat to meet him!). Commando has now released Episode 5 of his video series from the trail: 5 Million Steps. As with the first four episodes, it is fantastic, covering the last few days on the trail. Titanium (Dan) and Rocky often appear in the video. At the end of this one, Commando captured the moment when Rocky realized that his family was up ahead (thank you, Commando!). Here is the link to Episode 5:
It pays to hang out with Commando!
Day 23, Zero Day Near Fontana Dam
Sally came to spend the day. We stayed in an interesting motel called the Phillips Historic Motel & Cottages. It was chosen based on its allowing three big dogs. It has a dragon/eclectic theme and feel. It's not exactly a five-star facility, but it was clean, and the management was friendly. The nearby Highway 129 into the Fontana Dam area is known as "The Dragon" and is famous with motorcyclists for its hairpin curves.
We ate breakfast with Commando and made sure we had grits with our eggs. Commando went whole hog, ordering cheese grits.
After breakfast, Sally, the dogs, and I did a bit of sight-seeing. Sally wanted to see the Fontana AT Hilton. Several of the folks staying there recognized Rocky. Zap, Rosie, and Rocky seemed to be big hits and gave folks a chance to spend time with some friendly canines.
The rest of the day was spent doing the mundane things of in-town hiker life: washing clothes, food shopping, finding fuel, and, of course, chowing down.
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| Commando & Titanium Resupplying at Ingles |
Day 24 Teaser from Sally:
I dropped off Titanium, Commando, and Rocky at Fontana Dam in a torrential rainstorm the next morning (Day 24), and they continued on into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. A late-night message from Titanium via his Garmin confirmed that they were still in the wind and wet with no cell service. They camped at Mollies Ridge Shelter, 177.7 miles in on the AT.
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